Five questions with

CLOVIS DONIZETTI

JW: You have been a staple in the European/French Longboard scene for over two decades. What keeps you motivated to continue surfing with the intense changes and increased crowds at your local wave at Biarritz?
CD: I won't go into details regarding leashes, surf schools, etc, that are happening here. Still, one of the main issues with surfing for too long in a place (other than sore knees!) is witnessing the inevitable changes that occur and then falling into the trap of "it was better before…"
When I was a kid, dreaming of the golden age of surfing, I thought that I was born too late. Now, looking back, I feel very fortunate to have grown up in the era I did. Living the 60s in my own way. This foundation helped me make sense of these turbulent times and kept me motivated. To quote Tolstoy, now is the vital time, as it is the only time we have any power.

JW: Outside of surfing, do you have any other pursuits that bring you happiness equivalent to riding waves?
CD: I have many interests, but what brings me the most happiness is, of course, raising a family. Surfing can be overwhelming and very time-consuming, but with two young daughters come priorities, which in the end make me enjoy any time I have to go surfing much more.  

JW: In recent months, we have come to notice that you are a talented musician. What are your biggest inspirations in that space, and who are you listening to when motivating for a surf session?
CD: I find music to be very similar to surfing, with its diverse genres, eras, and characters, and I approach it similarly. I tried to find a medium that would suit my tastes and dynamics, and so playing the guitar (in the old Spanish way) from early on set me on a parallel experience to surfing, which is very complementary.
For pre-surf music, for a long time, I used to get fuelled by Charlie Parker and all the jazz greats, but with older age, I am settling down with 'la grande musique'. Here is an example: Bach's Toccata in C minor, performed by Martha Argerich.

JW: We've heard from countless people that you are the modern-day historian of French surfing culture. Who has been your most influential French surfing figure, and what intrigues you most about the history of the sport in your country?
CD
: I have several, but I am particularly fond of Jacky Rott. It could be said he was our French Joe Quigg. A fascinating life, making the first-ever board here in the 40's after seeing a glimpse of Hawaii in a cinema (but he didn't know about the materials, fins, etc.). He later associated with Barland to create the first surfboard company here. In his later years, I would occasionally surf with him, wearing red Speedos and riding triple stringers. He was well-mannered and indeed very influential. 
My fascination with surf history stems from the collision of a very romantic era beach town (19th-century style Biarritz) and mid-century Malibu surfing (Peter Viertel, Hemingway comes to mind).
When I witnessed the resurgence of longboarding and all these surf legends visiting for the Biarritz surf festival in the 1990s, I was hooked!

JW: How did you first hear of July Wetsuits, and what excites you about joining the project?
CD: I try to keep an eye on what's happening, and of course, July, from the beginning, seemed so refreshing, achieving something rare these days, when functionality meets good taste.
What excites me is the opportunity to share a vision of surfing and connect with the other outstanding individuals who are part of this community. And of course, to be as well surfing in the warmest, most comfy wetsuits!

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